Our Take

One of the most well-regarded independent watchmakers, Kari Voutilainen creates timepieces that are classically styled and impeccably finished. From the time-only Vingt-8 to the ultra-complicated decimal repeaters, the Val-de-Travers manufacture has produced some of the most iconic timepieces in modern watchmaking. That’s why we’re thrilled to handle one of the more rare examples from the esteemed brand – a 28TPI (Tantalum-Platinum Inverse) Piece Unique.

“Inverse” in this timepiece refers to the inversion of the beautiful caliber 28. Baseplate pushed to the caseback, the large, mirror polished balance wheel sits on the dial-side – a feast for the eyes. In order to make the inversion work, the movement has been slightly rearranged by adding gearing for the clockwise rotation of the hands as well as re-orienting the time-setting mechanism. With its three-dimensional architecture, everything is meticulously crafted to perfection from the polished countersinks to abundant beveling. Some of Voutilainen’s signature nods to horological history are found throughout – a balance-spring system with Phillips overcoil and a Grossmann interior curve as well as a lubrication-free direct impulse escapement that finds its origins in Abraham-Louis Breguet’s inventions.

While the dial is the star of the show, the caseback’s open-worked bridges with seconds and power reserve indicators are beautifully crafted. As a whole, it’s an exciting rendition of one of modern independent watchmaking’s most well-received calibers. It adds a level of refreshing newness to a classic that’s rare.

While the titanium version (28TI) was limited to eight timepieces, the tantalum-platinum case exists only as two. Both materials are heavy, individually. Combined, this is a substantial timepiece with serious presence on the wrist. Another testament to how well Voutilainen creates cases, the elongated teardrop lugs and classical profile are a massive part of the watchmaker’s allure for collectors.

This timepiece is unique for its light blue chapter rings on dial as well as the same for the seconds ring and power reserve on caseback.

The Details

Brand: Voutilainen Watches

Model: 28TPI Unique Piece

Case: Platinum and Tantalum case, manufactured in-house; sapphire crystal front and rear crystals

Dial and hands: Silver dial made in house with a unique light blue chapter ring with white gold hands.

Movement: In-house movement. Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly inVoutilainen workshops.

Movement size: Ø 30mm x 8.45mm

Case size: Ø 39mm x 13.40mm