Our Take

In recent years, whenever we see “Kind of” in the naming of a De Bethune timepiece, we know that we’re in for a real treat. The DB28XP Kind of Blue, DB29 Kind of Tourbillon, and DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT are all testaments to the creativity and technical genius of master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet. For Watches & Wonders 2024, De Bethune returns with another extraordinary timepiece, a masterful compendium of core technical and aesthetic attributes amassed from the brand’s 22 years in operation. This is De Bethune’s all-new DB Kind of Grande Complications.

Featuring the brand’s rotating case, first introduced in 2021, this was a natural choice for a timepiece with so many functions. Here, we have dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, ultra-light De Bethune 30 second tourbillon in titanium, spherical moonphase indication, leap-year indication, a perpetual calendar indicating day, month and date, end of power reserve indication, and an age of the moon indication. Such a culmination of acquired techniques and innovations, we could write 10,000 words on the decades of incremental steps that led to this timepiece.

Focusing on a few specific details, here’s what sticks out for us with this release. One, there is an amazing juxtaposition between the high-speed, almost frenetic tourbillon and the calm and composed central jumping second hand. What an amazing translation across those mechanisms to create that effect – a highly technical feat that requires some 60+ components. Two, it’s often that the movement is the sole star of any grande complication timepiece, but here’s there’s a lot to take in beyond the caliber. The DB Kind of Grande Complication’s case matches what the movement provides – there are 199 components in the exterior of the timepiece on top of the 552 parts in the caliber. Three, there are times where the pursuit of ultra-complicated watchmaking forces a brand to wander from its typical aesthetic identity – complexity takes priority above all else. Here, we have an ultra-complicated wristwatch that is thoroughly De Bethune in its design and look. There’s no sacrifice made at the altar of complications to craft this timepiece.

Integrating each of the 751 components involved in its exterior and movement required much more thought than assembling the various complications separately. Rethinking the caliber as a functional whole so that each complication interacts in perfect harmony is a technical feat that would be inconceivable without total technical mastery of all the innovations and patents involved in the Manufacture's 32 previously released calibers. A huge feat, the DB Kind of Grande Complication is ultra-technical watchmaking at its finest.

The Details

DB Kind of Grande Complication

Name: DB Kind of Grande Complication

Reference: DBK2TV2

Functions: Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium, Spherical moon- phase indication, leap-year indication, perpetual calendar indicating day, month and date, end of power reserve indication, age of the moon indication

Movement: DB2529

Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement

Adjustment: Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions). Month, day of the week and spherical moon-phase adjustment via correctors on the case

Number of parts: 751

Jewelling: 48 rubis

Diameter: 30 mm

Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Specificities:

• Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016)
• "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
• Silicon escape wheel
• Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008)
• De Bethune Dead Beat Second De Bethune Innovation (2011)
• Spherical moon-phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
• Retrograde age of the moon indication De Bethune Innovation (2013)

Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour

Adornment:

• Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
• Polished and chamfered barrel bridge
• Blued titanium minute and jumping seconds bridge
• Hand snailed barrels
• Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand

Contemporary single-sided display

Display:

• hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours, minutes and jumping seconds
• Blued polished moon day indicator
• Polished steel tourbillon seconds hand
• End of power-reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o'clock Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Dial: Minute sub-dial, 30'' sub-dial and moon day sub-dial silvered and relief

Classic reverse side display

Display:

• Polished yellow gold hour, minute and date hands
• Spherical moon phase and leap year indicator at 3 o'clock
• Blue day and month discs with gold relief

Dial:

• Star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars - Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
• Silvered and relief hour and minute ring
• Date sub-dial in blued sandblasted titanium with gold relief at 9 o'clock
• Blue day and month discs with gold relief

Case and strap

Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium

Case diameter: 43.3 mm

Case thickness: 13.85 mm

Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o'clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case

Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs, De Bethune Patent (2006) With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side

Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating

Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining

Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium