Whenever Urwerk adds a new timepiece to the collection, it’s always extremely exciting. With Dubai Watch Week 2023, the duo of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei elevated the UR-200 family to another level with the arrival of the UR-230 “Eagle”. This timepiece added something new to the collection with design, mechanics, and material. With signature satellite display, wandering hours and retrograde minutes hand, there’s been an engine upgrade and a high-tech makeover. Back now with a final edition in the UR-230 series, Urwerk unveils the new UR-230 “Black Star.”
An exploration in materials as much as an evolution of the brand’s signature satellite complication and turbine winding system, the UR-230 series saw the “Eagle” in its lightweight CTP Carbon case, the “Polaris” with its highly unusual white, monobloc fiberglass-enhanced ceramic, and now the “Black Star” with another exploration in ultra-innovative materials. Here, the case is made from a laminated composite ceramic developed specifically for Urwerk. Layers of braided ceramic, fibreglass and carbon fibre have been integrated into a single polymer matrix. When machined, this unique ceramic reveals a shiny relief. The material’s flat, smooth surface is illuminated with sparkling dots, creating a dense, vibrant black-light texture.
From a watchmaking perspective, Urwerk’s signature turbines have been improved upon through innovative shock absorbers designed to protect the all-new, in-house UR-7.30 caliber. A first set of turbines is dedicated to attenuating the impact of any external shock, thereby guaranteeing the robustness and durability of the watch. A second set controls the flow of air that feeds the winding system. The strength of this “air brake,” designed to modulate the winding power according to the wearer’s level of activity, is set by a rotating knob on the back of the watch. From a technical standpoint, this is a huge step forward in the complexity and robustness of Urwerk’s signature turbine rotors.
A completion to the UR-230 triptych, the “Black Star” solidifies the evolutionary step that broadens the scope of the brand’s design and technical feats. Sure to be a hit amongst collectors, this UR-230 is limited to 35 pieces.
Technical Specifications
Movement
Caliber: UR-7.30 developed by URWERK
Winding: Modular automatic winding
Escapement: Swiss lever escapement
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Balance: Variable inertia
Jewels: 50
Balance Spring: Flat
Energy: Double barrel
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Materials:
Baseplate in ARCAP P40
3D minutes pointer in aluminium with counterweight
Steel central spring
Hours transporter in aluminium
Central carousel & screws in grade 5 titanium
Finishing
Hour-markers painted with Super-LumiNova™
Structure finely 3D-engraved with circular satin-brushed pattern
Shotpeened satin-brushed subdial indications
Finely sandblasted carousel with shotpeened, circular satin-finished, black rhodium-plated cage
Finely sandblasted satellite cam with DLC coating
Finely sandblasted anodised 3D hand
Components hand-painted with Super-LumiNova™:
Yellow glowing blue (hour-markers, automatic indication)
Red glowing green (60-minute marker, OFF indicator)
Green (ON indicator)
Polished screws
Indications
Wandering hours on satellite complication (URWERK patent)
3D retrograde minutes hand
Aerodynamic winding regulation indication (Air Brake)
Automatic winding status indication (On/Off)
Case
Material: Exclusive ceramic composite developed for URWERK
Dimensions:
Width: 44.81 mm
Length: 53.55 mm
Thickness: 14.30 mm
Glass: Transparent sapphire crystal
Caseback: Black DLC-treated titanium & sapphire crystal
Water Resistance: Pressure-tested to 30 m (3 ATM)
Strap: Vulcanized rubber, “Kiska” reference, Velcro fastening