Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

$38,000

In the heart of German watchmaking country, in Glashütte, Moritz Grossmann has put together a series of exceptional releases over the last few years. The brand’s HAMATIC Vintage Cream received critical acclaim from the indie collector community and hand-finishing on timepieces like the Benu Heritage Tremblage are exquisite. Now, we’re back with another exceptional Moritz Grossmann timepiece –  the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction in stainless steel.

While the Tefnut has been part of Moritz Grossmann’s catalog since 2015, this iteration brings the collection in line with the brand’s more recent design language. A major part of the upgrade hinges on the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction’s dial. Exceptional in appearance, the dial is crafted through the traditional 19th century method of silver friction plating. This technique has become a hallmark of Moritz Grossmann in recent years, providing the brand with quite unique, fine-grained and velvety dials. The process of silver plating by friction entails rubbing the roughened surface of the dial with a whitish powder of silver granules, salt, and tartar while all hand-engraved elements are filled with lacquer before being silver-plated. Once sanded down to remove excess lacquer, what remains is the rich, deep inlay of the lacquer in the numerals, minute track, and logo. This creates an intense contrast between black and bright silver dial. 

Flipping the Tefnut over, in-house caliber 102.1 bears all of the emblems of high-end German watchmaking. Three-fifths mainplate in German silver, shock-absorbing Grossmann balance, hand-engraved floral motifs on the balance cock, it’s an aesthetically well-balanced movement with its 188 components and 48-hour power reserve. White sapphires with gold chatons are fixed by unusual brown-violet screws, something that adds more of the brand’s own touch to the movement. Housed in a 39mm x 8.5mm case, its short lug profile is sure to fit seamlessly on wrists both small and large. Another exceptional addition to the Moritz Grossmann catalog, this Tefnut is new and available now.

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Model: Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction
Reference: MG-003517 (Stainless Steel)
Movement: Manufactory Calibre 102.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power Reserve: 48 hours when fully wound
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: 22 (including 3 in screwed gold chatons)
Number of Parts: 188
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with four inertia screws, two poising screws, and Nivarox 1 balance spring
Balance: Diameter 10.0 mm

Case:

  • Material: stainless steel
  • Diameter: 39.0 mm
  • Height: 8.5 mm
  • Construction: Three-part case
  • Crown: stainless steel for winding and time-setting

Dial:

  • Engraved, set in black and hand silver-plated by friction
  • Traditional 19th-century finishing technique

Hands:

  • Manually crafted steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

Crystal:

  • Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
  • Sapphire display back

Strap:

  • Hand-stitched alligator leather
  • Prong buckle in stainless steel

Special Features:

  • Shock-resistant balance with inertia and poising screws
  • Impulse pin integrated in rim
  • Flat balance spring and safety roller
  • Grossmann micrometer screw for fine adjustment
  • 3/5 plate movement with frame pillars and removable clutch winding mechanism
  • Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
  • Modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash
  • Mainspring barrel with bilateral jewel bearings for optimized low-torque power management
  • ARCAP train wheels
  • Proprietary escapement with 18-tooth escape wheel