Celebrating the brand’s 17th anniversary, Moritz Grossmann presents its first grand complication timepiece – the Perpetual Calendar. Notoriously, this complication is neither easy to read or user-friendly when adjusting. Here, Moritz Grossmann brings their own interpretation to the modernization of one of watchmaking’s highest complications.
Traditionally, a perpetual calendar combines a variety of information on a single dial. Arranging this information in an appealing way is a challenge of its own. The Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar offers a symmetrical and clear dial where all the indicators come together to form a single, harmonious picture. The perpetual calendar only occupies two subdials with a moonphase indication at 12 o’clock and seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. What significantly declutters the dial is the placement of the date indication in a ring around the dial, as well as the small apertures in each subdial to indicate leap year and day/night. Beyond enhanced legibility, Moritz Grossmann offers their own solution to the challenges of setting each indication individually. A sum corrector pusher on the case is used when the timepiece hasn’t been used for some days and everything needs to be adjusted in unison. A single press of the date button will pull the day, month, and moonphase indications along with it.
All of this is thanks to an all-new in-house movement, hand-wound caliber 101.13. This calibre is purely a plate movement based on a modified 100.1 movement with a module set on top for the perpetual calendar. Overall, it is an exceedingly complex piece of design that integrates numerous components. The module for the perpetual calendar alone consists of 211 individual parts, and they are complemented by the 190 components in the base movement.
The Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar is making its debut in three variants. Two models sport a rose gold case with slim, lance-shaped hands made of rose gold. The cup-shaped date indicator and hour appliqués are colourcoordinated to perfection. One of the models features a gleaming silver argenté dial whilst the other has a vibrant anthracite dial.
The third Perpetual Calendar variant is presented in a platinum case with a dial combining argenté and anthracite colours. The hour appliqués also have a silver colour, and the slender hands are made of blue tempered steel to ensure they are easy to read against the light background.
Reference:
MG-003906 (Argenté Dial)
MG-003907 (Anthracite Dial)
Movement:
Manufacture calibre 101.13, manual winding, regulated in five positions
Components:
401 total parts (190 movement / 211 calendar gears)
37 jewels, including 4 gold chatons (3 screwed)
Escapement:
Lever escapement
Oscillator:
Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws
Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance diameter: 14.2 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Power Reserve:
42 hours when fully wound
Functions:
Hours and minutes, small seconds with stop-second function, date, day of week, month, moon phase, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Operating Elements:
Crown, pusher, correctors, and sum corrector in rose gold
Case Dimensions:
Diameter 41.0 mm | Height 13.9 mm
Movement Dimensions:
Diameter 36.4 mm | Height 8.3 mm
Case:
Three-part case in 18 K rose gold
Dial:
Argenté or Anthracite with radiant-cut inner ring, subsidiary dials with Azurage decoration, goldstone moon-phase display with mother-of-pearl moon, applied indices
Hands:
Manually crafted and polished rose gold
Crystal / Display Back:
Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on one side
Strap:
Hand-stitched brown alligator leather strap with solid rose-gold prong buckle
Special Features:
Balance staff with integrated safety roller; impulse pin in the balance (Glashütte style); index adjuster with fine screw; 2/3 plate inspired by historical Moritz Grossmann pocket watches; untreated German-silver frame parts; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; stop-second function; hand-setting override with lateral pusher; gear-wheel stopwork with two-teeth backlash