De Bethune DB5Y

When De Bethune was founded in 2002, it debuted with a collection of just five watches – timepieces that set the course for one of the defining names in 21st-century independent watchmaking. Among these inaugural creations was the DB5. Today, we have the pleasure of presenting the DB5 in yellow gold, a watch that speaks to the brand’s earliest ambitions and ideals.

A time-only piece rendered in precious metal, the DB5 reflects De Bethune’s deep reverence for classical horology. Long before the brand became synonymous with futuristic forms, mirror-polished titanium, and thermal-blued experimentation, there was this: a study in proportion, restraint, and craft. The dial is elegantly guilloché and highly legible, accented by classical, blued Breguet hands and matching numerals. The 42mm yellow gold case is fitted with the now-iconic bullet lugs. This is an architectural detail that has since become a signature of the maison. Even decades later, those lugs form a visual bridge between De Bethune’s classical origins and its more avant-garde present.

It is worth remembering the context of the early 2000s, an era dominated by oversized, sport-driven designs. In contrast, the DB5, as well as the four other watches in De Bethune’s original collection, represented a deliberate and thoughtful return to the elegance of traditional watchmaking. Refined, meticulously finished, and quietly confident, it stood apart from prevailing trends.

This example features a solid 18K gold caseback and bears the serial number 005 – the fifth DB5 in yellow gold crafted by Denis Flageollet. A rare opportunity to acquire a foundational chapter in De Bethune’s history, this pre-loved timepiece is available now.