De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain

One of the favorite brands in independent watchmaking, De Bethune is known for its creativity – both in its designs and mechanics. Led by Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker and polymath, the brand has long explored materials, mastering the art of thermal oxidation of metals. The DB28 Kind of Blue is a masterclass in creating sheer vibrance from intense color on a watch. With Watches & Wonders 2024, we now have a new addition to De Bethune’s dive into the nuances and impact of color – the DB28xs Purple Rain.

An all-new chromatic palette, this is a bold evolution for the brand. In the process of thermally treating a metal, purple shows its richness before reaching blue, merging the nuances of red and blue in a harmonious ballet. It’s the royal color – inspiring artists, poets, and visionaries for centuries with strong symbolism associated with passion and spirituality. For anyone familiar with thermal oxidation, what places De Bethune above and beyond is how spectacularly monochrome the color is across all components. There’s no deviation, every part is thermal-treated to perfection.

An icon in modern independent watchmaking, this version of the DB28 bears more than a change of color, though. This is a watch that opens a new chapter at De Bethune. With a significantly smaller diameter than previous models (39mm), the process of redesigning the movement is an evolutionary step for the DB28, something that pushes the timepiece forward 13 years after its initial release in 2011. The caliber DB2005 has been adjusted to this miniaturization without compromising chronometric quality, and the increased lightness of the watch enhances its efficiency in case of shocks and accelerations. Coupled with its superlative finishing, including a mirror-polished plate resembling the Star Trek emblem as well as bridge, this is everything we’d expect from one of the premier indies in the industry.

The DB28xs Purple Rain is De Bethune’s philosophy in practice – perpetual evolution in its creations that springs from self-questioning. Relying both on mastery of ancestral craftsmanship as well as new technologies, this incessant movement is the keystone of the manufacture. The brand constantly cultivates the mindset that there are always ways to improve the history of watchmaking, generally, and their own timepieces, specifically.