De Bethune DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon

$225,000

One of the icons in modern independent watchmaking, the DB28 is back with a new edition – the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon. With Denis Flageollet at the helm, there’s always something new, innovative, and fascinating about DB28 releases. Every time, the timepiece is a canvas for some new idea – a surface for the master watchmaker to make his pursuits material. Launched at Geneva Watch Days 2025, this all-new DB28xs continues that trend.

This watch represents the union of two legendary timepieces – the avant-garde DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon and the elegant profile of the new xs timepieces. The best of both worlds, the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon is ultra-sleek in profile and design, showcasing the brand’s signature “blued-out” aesthetic. At 39mm in diameter, it’s an ideal timepiece for collectors that want something more “classical” in size without compromising on a futuristic look. 

While De Bethune can be lauded for its futuristic design and superb finishing, it often flies below the radar for its excellence in creating tourbillon complications. In this timepiece, the fast-rotating 30-second tourbillon is equipped with an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18g), comprising a total of 63 components with the lightest weighing less than 0.0001g. In line with the brand’s efforts to bring horological creations into the 21st century, master watchmaker Denis Flageollet designed this complication to be more effective at combating the erratic movements of the wrist in everyday life. The ultra-fast, ultra-light, high frequency (36,000VPH) tourbillon is all in service of maintaining chronometric performance in the wristwatch. 

Alongside the tourbillon, the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon features many of the brand’s patented innovations to heighten overall chronometry – a balance spring with flat terminal curve as well as a titanium balance with white gold inserts to optimize for temperature differences. The manual-wind movement also sacrifices none of its 5-day power reserve, even with a much smaller footprint on the wrist.

For the avid admirer of De Bethune creations, the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon ticks many of the brand’s signature boxes – blued to the max, ultra-modern tourbillon, and sports the iconic floating lug system. This is another excellent addition to the catalog of one of the greats in modern independent watchmaking.

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Functions

  • Hours, Minutes

  • 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock

Movement

  • Calibre: DB2009v5 (mechanical hand-wound)

  • Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by crown (2 positions)

  • Technical Features (DB2009v7):

    • Number of parts: 238

    • Jewelling: 36 jewels

    • Diameter: 30 mm

    • Power reserve: 5 days (self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation 2004)

    • Specificities:

      • Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration (De Bethune Patent 2016)

      • “De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve (Patent 2006)

      • Silicon escape wheel

      • Ultra-light 30’’ titanium tourbillon (Innovation 2008)

    • Frequency: 36,000 vibrations/hour

    • Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display

  • Hands: Polished titanium

  • Dial: Titanium hour ring with blued microlight decoration & polished hour markers

  • Minute/second ring: Blued grade 5 circular satin titanium

  • Bridges:

    • Barrel bridge cover and triangular central bridge in grade 5 blued polished titanium

    • Blued, drawn, chamfered contours

Case & Strap

  • Case material: Blued polished grade 5 titanium

  • Diameter: 38.7 mm

  • Thickness: 8 mm

  • Lugs: Blued polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs (Patent 2006)

  • Crystal: Sapphire (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating

  • Caseback: Screwed blued polished titanium with double anti-reflective coating

  • Water resistance: 3 ATM

  • Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining

  • Buckle: Blued grade 5 titanium pin buckle