De Bethune DB28xs Dark Sand

Led by master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, De Bethune has built its reputation for crafting ultra-modern timepieces, both in mechanics and design. For years now, it seems like every new release adds more and more to the brand’s vast catalog of heavy-hitters. Back again with yet another, De Bethune launches a new version of the beloved DB28xs: the DB28xs Dark Sand.

A new interpretation of the DB28xs Steel Wheels, the Dark Sand places material innovation at the forefront. Its 39mm case is crafted from matte anthracite zirconium, a metal De Bethune has explored for over a decade. Chosen for its durability, resistance to oxidation, and unique coloration, zirconium lends the watch a subdued, almost mineral presence, absorbing light rather than reflecting it, and giving the piece a distinctly contemporary character.

The openworked dial architecture remains a defining feature, offering a view into the movement while introducing a darker, more textural aesthetic. A black sandblasted titanium base evokes volcanic sand, contrasted by circular satin-finished elements and punctuated with polished mauve titanium hour markers. At the center, De Bethune’s signature deltoid bridge, finished with barleycorn guilloche, appears suspended, its angular geometry highlighted through a mix of sandblasted, polished, and beveled surfaces.

Inside beats the hand-wound DB2115V13 calibre, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). It incorporates several of the brand’s patented innovations, including a titanium balance wheel with white gold weights, a proprietary balance spring with a flat terminal curve, and a silicon escape wheel for improved efficiency. A twin-barrel system delivers a six-day power reserve, displayed on the caseback alongside an anthracite microlight finish.

More wearable than historical DB28 timepieces, the xs models are exceptionally ergonomic with cases that measure 39mm in diameter and 8mm in thickness. Worn by the brand’s roster of top-level professional tennis players including Tommy Paul, Lorenzo Musetti, and Jess Pegula, DB28xs’es are ultra-comfy on wrists, big and small.