De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish

$120,000

With the release of the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2025, De Bethune showcases one its sides – classic and understated. The other side of De Bethune is ultra-modern and bold, both in mechanics and aesthetics. For the brand’s second timepiece released at the watch industry’s biggest trade show, this other of De Bethune is on full display with the DB28GS Swordfish. 

Released originally in 2019, the DB28GS Grand Bleu marked a turning point in De Bethune’s history. It was the first diving watch, bringing a heavy dose of the brand’s design and aesthetic language into the realm of “sport” watches. The DB28GS Swordfish adopts the bold design and character of its predecessor while offering a new, bi-chromatic aesthetic. A phenomenal combination of De Bethune’s vibrant blue surrounded by a sea of darkness. 

One of the striking elements of this timepiece is the variety found across its black zirconium and black brushed stainless steel case as well as black titanium, black steel, and blued components in the dial. It’s a depth of darkness that covers a whole spectrum from shiny to matte to glossy with subtle highlights of blue sprinkled throughout. 

Technically, this ultra-modern diving watch is powered by DB2080 movement is equipped with a double barrel self-regulating system that provides a 5-day power reserve, with performance indicated between 9 and 10 o’clock. The presence of a titanium/grey gold balance wheel, designed to adapt to temperature variations, along with a flat terminal curve hairspring, ensures an optimal mass/inertia ratio for an ideal frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, suited for wristwatches. The watch undergoes extensive reliability and shock resistance testing, which it passes thanks to a triple shock absorber system that protects the heart of the movement. A titanium bridge, equipped with shock absorbers at both ends (ruby, plus blade spring) and a central damper, ensures precise position stability of the balance wheel, even during violent impacts. Meticulously developed with 51 jewels and 400 components, this is why De Bethune is one of the top watchmaking operations in the business. 

Beyond the beautiful dial, ultra-modern case, and complex movement, the most fascinating aspect of this timepiece is most likely its fully mechanical lighting system. The DB28GS Swordfish functions as simply as a bicycle light, diffusing white light from the four corners of the dial at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. Activated through the button at 6 o’clock,  a small gear driven by the dual barrel. This gear, through a miniature dynamo, provides the energy necessary to light the watch without affecting the movement’s operation. Once again, the manufacture showcases its ability to blend functionality and technical excellence, as the simplicity of this lighting function masks the intricate engineering that only the De Bethune technical team can fully appreciate.

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DB28GS Swordfish

Technical specifications

Name: DB28GS Swordfish

Reference: DB28GSV2BB

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock, unidirectional rotating bezel, manual dial lighting

Movement: DB2080

Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement

Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions), push button at 6 o’clock to activate the lightening

Technical features of calibre DB2080

Number of parts: 400

Jewelling: 51 jewels

Diameter: 30 mm

Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel. De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Specificities:

  • Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration. De Bethune Patent (2016)
  • “De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve. De Bethune Patent (2006)
  • Silicon escape wheel
  • Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. De Bethune Innovation (2005)
  • Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher. De Bethune Innovation (2019)

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Adornment:

  • Mirror polished and blued grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
  • Plate and barrel bridge covers in black hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving”. De Bethune Innovation (2007)
  • Hand-snailed barrels
  • Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts

Display

  • Display: Black titanium hours and minutes hands with black polished steel insert and second blued polished titanium insert, luminescent tip
  • Polished blued titanium seconds hand with luminescent tip
  • Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock

Dial:

  • Black Satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out Arabic numerals
  • Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring

Case and strap

Case material: Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, black brushed and polished hardened stainless steel caseback and bezel

Case diameter: 44 mm

Case thickness: 12.8 mm

Lugs:

  • Floating lugs in black brushed harden stainless steel with blued polished grade 5 titanium insert. De Bethune Patent (2006)

Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating

Case back: open in black polished hardened stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Strap: Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap

Buckle: Folding clasp in black brushed hardened stainless steel