De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue

The De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels stands as one of the defining creations of modern independent watchmaking. First introduced in 2011, the DB28 reshaped expectations for contemporary haute horlogerie with its futuristic architecture, technical ingenuity, and uncompromising finishing. Just one year later, it earned the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), cementing its status as an icon. Presented here is an exceptionally rare edition of the DB28 Steel Wheels, produced in a limited series of only five pieces.

While the standard Steel Wheels is known for its mirror-polished titanium surfaces, this edition is rendered almost entirely in De Bethune’s signature blued aesthetic. The case, articulated lugs, chapter ring, dial components, and delta-shaped barrel bridge are all hand-blued, creating a remarkably uniform tone across the watch. Achieving this level of consistency on mirror-polished titanium requires immense craftsmanship and highlights the brand’s mastery of artisanal finishing techniques.

Distinctive to the Steel Wheels configuration is its semi-openworked dial, revealing polished and skeletonized gears and barrels beneath the surface. The exposed mechanics create a striking interplay of depth, light, and reflection against the vivid blue architecture, while polished hour markers provide brilliant contrast throughout.

Inside beats the hand-wound caliber DB2115V4, a movement showcasing many of De Bethune’s most celebrated innovations. These include the patented titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, the proprietary De Bethune balance spring, silicon escapement, and the brand’s triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. A spherical moonphase at 6 o’clock remains accurate for 122 years before requiring correction, while the double-barrel construction delivers an impressive six-day power reserve.

Housed within an ultra-light 42.6mm grade 5 titanium case fitted with De Bethune’s spring-loaded articulated lugs, the DB28 Steel Wheels offers exceptional comfort alongside its unmistakably avant-garde presence.