One of the pioneers of modern independent watchmaking, De Bethune’s catalog is full of hits. Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker and polymath behind the brand, dives deep into every aspect of watchmaking through innovative mechanisms, designs, and materials. Especially complicated timepieces, there are few that do it to the same level of excellence. That’s why we’re thrilled to present an updated version of a De Bethune classic – the DB25 Perpetual Calendar.
Something like the watch industry’s version of remastering in music, this is the first return to the DB25 Perpetual Calendar since its original release in 2011. As De Bethune has grown significantly over the last decade, so too has this update. Showcased first at Geneva Watch Days 2022, this DB25 Perpetual Calendar features an all new in-house caliber, dial, and case size.
While De Bethune brings back the guilloché dial and dial layout, the watch’s look has evolved with the addition of a two-tone dial – silver and blue. A combination of subdials, for moonphase, date, and leap year indicator, and apertures, for day and month, create an overall well-balanced and pleasing dial on the eye. Compared to the original’s 44mm case, the dial is far from difficult to read nor overly cluttered at this timepiece’s new 40mm diameter.
One of the major attractions of this new DB25 is the updated movement – caliber DB2324V2. Seen through the open caseback, the three-quarter plate is sandblasted and features one of the brand’s hallmark star motifs. Coupled with the blued titanium rotor and balance bridge, it’s a gorgeous automatic caliber with 423 components and 48 jewels. Common to De Bethune movements, this timepiece packs a double barrel for an impressive five-day power reserve.
Of course, none of this would be “De Bethune” without some of the brand’s defining horological innovations. There’s the patented triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system as well as the in-house blue silicon escape – both ensure chronometric performance in day-to-day life.
A serious update to one of De Bethune’s classics, this is one of the premiere perpetual calendar timepieces in the indie game.
DB25 Perpetual Calendar
Movement: DB2324V2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: