Over the last few years, De Bethune has focused on modernizing its catalog with updated versions of some iconic timepieces. Focused on overall wearability, we’ve seen the DB28 become slimmer in xs models as well as a new DB25 Perpetual Calendar timepiece arriving in 40mm cases. For Dubai Watch Week 2025, the L’Auberson brand returns with the all-new DB25 Perpetual Sky, featuring De Bethune’s signature starry sky and Milky Way dial.
Composed of grade 5 titanium, the DB25 case retains its slim lines and slanted, hollowed-out lugs, ensuring a lightweight, comfortable fit on the wrist. The perpetual calendar is displayed against a backdrop of a starry sky and the Milky Way. The display is based on a multi-level architecture consisting of ring-shaped appliques circling the subdials and a silver-toned minutes track. The date is positioned at 6 o’clock, while the day and month apertures are located at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock respectively. The time is indicated with both accuracy and elegance by manually-finished, mirror-polished, curved yellow gold hands.
For several years now, the starry sky and Milky Way have been an integral part of the Maison’s history. Defined according to a specific geographical location and date, this pattern enables subtle personalisation of the flat-polished blued titanium dial. After delicate polishing and bluing operations using a thermal oxidation process exclusive to the Manufacture, the artisans set each white gold pin into micro-perforations of varying sizes, bringing to life a poetic depiction of the starry sky. After laser micro-milling, the Milky Way is gradually revealed through the handcrafted application of 24-carat gold leaf. It’s one of the most beautiful dial finishes in indie watchmaking and certainly stands out in a crowd.
Flipping this timepiece over, the DB2500QP hand-wound calibre benefits from all the achievements of De Bethune’s technology and research since its founding. It notably features a perpetual calendar complication, a spherical moon indicating the phases of the moon with a degree of precision corresponding to a one-day deviation in 122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a titanium and white gold balance wheel, a “De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape-wheel, and a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. This is a masterclass in technical innovation in modern watchmaking, all thanks to the creative brilliance of master watchmaker Denis Flageollet. With 330 components, all manufactured in-house, it’s an ultra-complicated, highly finished timepiece that meets what collectors expect from one of the most beloved brands in indie watchmaking.
Movement
Calibre DB2005 V3 — Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment
Winding, setting the date and time via crown (3 positions)
Month, day of the week, and spherical moon-phase adjusted through 3 correctors on the case
Technical Features of Calibre DB2005 V3
Number of parts: 339
Jewels: 27 rubies
Diameter: 30 mm
Power Reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel (De Bethune Innovation, 2004)
Specificities
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration (De Bethune Patent, 2016)
“De Bethune” balance spring with flat terminal curve (De Bethune Patent, 2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication accurate to one lunar day every 122 years (De Bethune Patent, 2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system (De Bethune Innovation, 2005)
Frequency
28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment & Finishing
Polished Grade 5 titanium cover plate
Mirror-polished steel barrel bridge cover
Hand-snailed barrels
Handcrafted finishes and decorations
Hands
Hand-curved, mirror-polished yellow gold hands
Perpetual Calendar
Day aperture at 9 o’clock
Month aperture at 3 o’clock
Sub-dial at 6 o’clock indicating the date
Leap-year indication via a gold pastille appearing within the starry sky at 12 o’clock
Moon Phase
Spherical moon-phase in palladium and blued steel
Accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years (De Bethune Patent, 2004)
Dial
Blued polished titanium starry sky with white gold stars
Milky Way created via laser micro-engraving with 24-carat gold leaf inlay
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring with Roman numerals
Blued date ring with 3N-gilded transfers
Case
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness)
Double anti-reflective coating
Case Back
Open back in polished titanium
Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Water Resistance
3 ATM
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle
Pin buckle in polished titanium