Over the years, we’ve seen De Bethune launch so many spectacular iterations of the DB25. From the DB25GMT Starry Varius to the DB25QP Perpetual Calendar to one of our favorite movements in the DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite, De Bethune constantly finds a way to bring more to the table. Fortunate to have another model in our hands for the first time, this is the DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky.
Debutted originally in 2007, the DB25 is a more classical timepiece than others in the De Bethune catalog. The timepiece’s fixed lugs, as opposed to the articulated lugs on the DB28, provide a more dressy shape and aesthetic. That said, this DB25 features one of the incredibly modern hallmarks of the brand – the majestically blued dial with starry sky motif. Long known for its expertise in the thermal treatment of metals, there’s always something about the extensive bluing on De Bethune timepieces that makes them pop on the wrist. A truly eye-catching dial, there’s so much to love in the mirror-polished finish, half-blued moonphase at 12 o’clock, and texture with raised hour chapter ring.
Though renowned for their bluing, De Bethune is undoubtedly at the pinnacle of movement construction. Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker behind the brand, is a maestro in movement design and development. Featuring a manual-wind, six-day power reserve, caliber DB2105 is composed of 286 parts with 29 jewels. All of the brand’s signature, patented innovations are here – the triple pare-chute shock absorption system, the “De Bethune” balance spring with flat terminal curve for better chronometric performance, the silicon escape wheel for reduced friction. As for finishing, both the bridges and plates are mirror-polished. Normally reserved for smaller components, screw heads or narrow bridges, this movement is a statement for its broad, extremely time-intensive application of mirror polishing throughout.
Well executed on every level, this DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky is another testament to De Bethune’s position at the top of modern independent watchmaking.
De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase Starry Sky
Functions: Hours, minutes, spherical moon phase indication at 12 o’clock, power reserve situated on the back.
Dial: De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars – Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf – spherical moon-phase indicator in palladium and flame-blued steel at 12 o’clock.
Hands: Curved in rose gold
Case: Platinum set with 66 baguette-cut diamonds – diameter 44 mm – thickness 11.2 mm
Attachments: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Glass: Sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment. Crown at 3 o’clock, setting in three positions
Back: Open back in polished platinum and linear power reserve on the back Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Calibre: DB2105 calibre
Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
Diameter 30 mm – 286 parts – silver plate and barrel bridge cover in mirror-polished steel – hand-snailed barrels – hand-polished, chamfered steel parts
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 6 days