De Bethune DB Eight

$130,000

It seems like every year, De Bethune arrives at Watches & Wonders with something exceptional in hand. This year, 2023, that’s no less the case. The brand comes with the DB Eight, the continued evolution and exploration of single-pusher chronographs. Now available for pre-orders through Esperluxe, this is the brand new De Bethune DB Eight.

De Bethune has a history of creating exquisite chronographs. While the DB28 Maxichrono is De Bethune’s most technically unusual chronograph, the Maison’s very first watch featuring this function – the DB1 – was a classic two-counter monopusher chronograph in the purest tradition of stylish 20th century chronographs. In a quest to bring an idea launched 20 years ago to fruition, De Bethune has now poured all its technical and aesthetic expertise into releasing a chronograph on a par with its high demands.

The DB Eight was born of a quest for elegance and a pure, subtly balanced design. Together, Denis Flageollet and Claire Wolf designed a supremely refined classic guilloché dial and developed a brand-new chronograph caliber by placing its counter at 6 o’clock so that it could be as large as possible in order to provide a highly readable 60-minute indication. When the chronograph is reset to zero, the tail of the chronograph hand subtly covers that of the minutes counter in such a way that the hands are overlaid. A very symmetrical and distinguished result for a watch housing one of watchmaking’s most demanding mechanisms. Powered by the brand’s 31st in-house caliber, the DB3000, the manual-wind, 60-hour power reserve movement is built out of 281 components and features some of De Bethune’s hallmark technologies from its patented balance-spring with flat terminal curve, titanium balance with white gold inertia-blocks, along with the silicon escape-wheel. Following in the footsteps of the DB1, DB8 and Maxichrono, the DB Eight is yet another impressive addition to De Bethune’s monopusher chronographs.

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Movement

  • Caliber: DB3000, in-house
  • Type: Mechanical, manual-winding
  • Diameter: 30 mm
  • Components: 281
  • Jewels: 31
  • Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
  • Power reserve: 60 hours

Functions / Indications

  • Hours, minutes
  • Monopusher chronograph button (integrated in the crown) with 60-second seconds counter and 60-minute instantaneous minute counter
  • Display: Hour and minute hands, polished titanium seconds and minutes counters
  • Winding and time-setting via crown (2 positions)

Patented Technologies

  • Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration (De Bethune Patent, 2016)
  • “De Bethune” balance spring with flat terminal curve (De Bethune Patent, 2006)
  • Silicon escape wheel

Movement Finishing

  • All steels hand-beveled and polished
  • Chromium-plated steel chronograph bridges with drawn lines
  • Hand-snailed barrels
  • Handmade finishing decorations

Case

  • Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
  • Diameter: 42.4 mm
  • Thickness: 9.2 mm
  • Lugs: Ogival lugs
  • Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
  • Caseback: Open back, sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
  • Water resistance: 3 ATM

Dial

  • Silver, radiating guilloché in 12 sectors
  • Blue Arabic numerals
  • 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock on a silvered barley grain engine-turned sub-dial

Strap & Buckle

  • Extra-supple alligator leather strap with alligator lining
  • Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium